What you need to know about home generators

“Power outages likely if there is an extreme weather event this winter,” warn meteorologists at kens5.com.

“Report warns Texas to take certain steps to avoid future winter power outages,” blasts a recent headline at mysanantonio.com.

“Longer, more frequent outages afflict the U.S. power grid …,” according to a story in the Washington Post.

From coast to coast, Americans can expect at least one power outage in the coming years. In fact, according to Garrett Herring at spglobal.com, “US power outages jumped 73% in 2020,” resulting in 1.33 billion outage hours.

Short-term power outages are typically easy to handle. But, when the lights go out for an extended period of time, life becomes exceedingly more challenging.

Even if you haven’t yet experienced a prolonged blackout, the chances are good that one day you will. This is when a generator will come in handy.

Standby or portable generator?

Standby generators (also known as whole-home generators) are connected to your gas or propane source, permanently.

It is hooked into the home’s electricity so that when the unit senses that your power is out, it will switch itself on and shoot power to the circuits and appliances that you’ve previously selected.

Portable generators, on the other hand, don’t typically power the whole house. They also don’t turn themselves on and they need frequent refills of fuel (gasoline, propane, diesel, etc.).

Finally, portable generators must be located outdoors.

Cost, naturally, will play a big part in which generator you’ll choose.

“Whole-house generator cost averages $15,000 nationally,” according to Meghan Wentland at bobvilla.com. She goes on to state that the cost ranges from $10,000 to $20,000.

A portable generator, according to Wentland, will run you between $500 and $2,000.

If the cost doesn’t matter, your next decision will be exactly what you want to have powered during an outage.

If it’s just an appliance or two and a few lights, a portable generator may serve your purposes.

If you want to power the entire home, consider going with the standby generator.

Safety considerations

“Running a generator improperly can kill you in as little as 5 minutes if the concentration of carbon monoxide is high enough,” according to Haniya Rae at consumerreports.com.

Sadly, it happens to between 60 and 70 people each year.

“No matter what, resist the urge to move a portable generator inside the house or the garage,” cautions Don Huber, Consumer Report’s director of product safety.

Locate the portable generator at least 20 feet from the home and ensure that it exhausts in the opposite direction of the home.

For more generator safety information visit energy.gov.

3 plants that will bloom indoors for you in fall and winter

Sure, that foil-wrapped holiday poinsettia you bought at the supermarket may still be quite decorative, but consider bringing home something a bit unexpected to help brighten up the interior of the home and chase away cabin fever.


“Cheerful” is the perfect word to describe the scallop-edged leaves and clusters of brightly- colored flowers of the kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). Best of all, this gorgeous, colorful display occurs in winter, in shades of orange, pink, red, yellow and white.

This beauty performs best with lots of light so place it near a south-facing window. Overwatering will kill it, so allow the soil to dry-out between waterings. Learn more about this plant’s requirements at the New York Botanical Gardens website (scroll down the page).

Note: Parts of the Kalanchoe, especially the flowers, are poisonous to pets and children. If you suspect that your child has ingested the plant, call your medical professional or the American Association of Poison Control Centers, available 24 hours a day, at 800-222-1222.

If your pet ingests the plant, call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435.

Bonus: It’s easy to get your kalanchoe to rebloom – follow the walk-through provided by Clemson University Cooperative Extension.

Peace Lily

The shorter days of winter bring with them lower levels of sunlight streaming through the home’s windows. Choosing a plant that tolerates dusky conditions is an important factor.

The peace lily (Spathiphyllum group) loves shade, and winter just happens to provides its preferred light level.

Treat it right and this glossy-leaved stunner will not only brighten up a dark corner but do so with a bloom or two as well.

Learn more about the peace lily and its care requirements online at North Carolina State University Extension.

Note: The peace lily isn’t a true lily. The plant’s leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals which, if eaten in large quantities, can cause mouth and throat irritation, vomiting and trouble swallowing. Keep out of the reach of small children and pets.

Bonus: The peace lily will wilt to let you know when it’s time to water.

African Violet

We decided to include the African violet (Saintpaulia spp.) in our list of ways to add spring to the winter because they are so easy to grow and they easily tolerate warm indoor air in the winter.

In fact, you can help your African violet thrive by keeping indoor temperatures between 65 degrees to 79 degrees Fahrenheit.

Overwatering will kill it, so allow the soil to dry-out between waterings.

If the leaves begin to yellow, the plant may need more sunlight, so move it to a “window with western or southern exposure,” and filtered sunlight, recommend the experts at Optimara/Holtkamp Greenhouses, Inc.

Note: Never place the African violet in direct sun as it may burn the foliage.

Bonus: Create new African violets from the leaves of your current plant. Learn how online at Penn State University Extension’s website.

Yes, flower gardening season is over in much of the country. That doesn’t mean, however, that you can’t have gorgeous flowers growing indoors to brighten up an otherwise dreary time of year.


It’s the perfect time to weatherproof those windows

If you haven’t yet prepared your home for winter, you aren’t alone. Americans have had a rough and tumble 2021, with the pandemic, the economy heading south and the attending chaos of both.

Whatever the reason for putting off weatherproofing the windows in your home, it’s never too late in the season to get it done

Weatherproofing requires more than plastic sheets

When you’re ready to keep the cold air out and the warm air in, you can tackle the first step of the weatherproofing without too much hassle.

Begin by cleaning your windows, both inside and out. Not a fun job, but it’s part of the process.

While you’re cleaning them, check every window to ensure the caulking is in good condition. If not, remove the old and apply new caulking.

The U.S. Department of Energy offers handy advice on how to do this. You’ll find it online at energy.gov. Scroll down the page and click on “Caulking.”

Wooden frames or broken panes that require replacing may need to wait until spring as this can be a bigger job.

Gather your supplies 

Once the windows in your home are clean, it’s time to take them to the next, energy-efficient level with weather stripping and window insulation film.

If you don’t have these items on hand, you’ll find them at the large home improvement stores and at hardware stores.

Look for self-adhesive weather stripping as this will save a lot of time and energy. Follow the package instructions and check out the brilliant weather-stripping guide at lowes.com. It includes information about how to choose the right type of weather stripping for your windows and walk-throughs of how to apply it to different types of windows.

Once all your windows have this protection, it’s time to apply window insulation film. This is applied directly to windows. Again, check your local hardware or home improvement store to purchase.

The selection may be dizzying, so check out the recommendations at bobvila.com and the product reviews at amazon.com.

You’ll find an application tutorial at energystar.gov.

Although it sounds like weatherproofing your windows will take the better part of a weekend, it’s actually a quick job that you can be done in an hour or two, depending on the number of windows in your home.

The best news is that once you’re finished, you can expect your home to remain warm and snug for the rest of the winter.

Creepy Movies to get you in the Halloween Mood

Halloween is upon us and that means trips with the kids to corn mazes and haunted houses, shopping for pumpkins and buying treats.

In other words, if you have young children, Halloween means family time.

What better way to celebrate our haunted month than will some creepy movies? Pop up some corn instead of wandering through a field of it and sit back with the family while you all get into the Halloween spirit.

We also have suggestions for those with older children, or none at all!

“Super Monsters Save Halloween”

If you have tiny ones in the house (age 3+), this is the movie to rent (at Netflix). It’s especially suited for the ones who may feel a bit nervous about Halloween. The Super Monsters “… help a friend see there is nothing to be afraid of,” according to the Netflix description. Rated TV-Y.

“Curious George: A Halloween Boo Fest”

Although it’s recommended for pre-schoolers (but not rated), if your child scares easily, you may want to opt for another movie. “Cute but my 4 1/2 year old son was scared by the no noggin [headless scarecrow] and brought it up twice at bedtime,” according to one parent reviewer with several others saying the same. Read more reviews at commonsensemedia.org. 

“Nightmare Before Christmas”

Suitable for kids age 7 and up, the “Nightmare Before Christmas” brings us the King of Halloween, Jack Skellington and his trip through the door to Christmas Town. There, he decides to give up his annual Halloween festivities and try his hand at December’s holiday. Kids love this one. Rated PG.

“The Lady Vanishes”

Love  classic spooky tales? Here’s an Alfred Hitchcock 1938 release that centers around the disappearance of a young woman’s traveling companion, the denial of the other passengers that her companion ever existed and her search to figure out what happened. No rating.

“Rosemary’s Baby”

A young, waifish mom-to-be thinks there is something not quite right about the child she is carrying. When she and her husband move to a new apartment, in a building with a haunted reputation and oddball occupants, all heck breaks loose. The truth of it all is revealed when Rosemary gives birth. Mia Farrow and John Cassavetes star in this 1968 classic. Rated R.


Released in 1931, this is the Dracula that forever cemented the dastardly blood sucker in America’s psyche. The midnight ride through the fog is worth the price of admission. No rating.


Wes Craven’s classic, released in 1996, stars Courtney Cox, David Arquette, Neve Campbell and Drew Barrymore. The movie follows a California high school student who becomes the target of Ghostface, a mysterious killer. Considered a “slasher movie,” this one’s not suited for kids. Besides, it’s rated R.

Silence of the Lambs”

It was scary back in 1991 and it’s still scary today, with Academy Award winning performances from Jodie Foster and Anthony Hopkins. The latter plays Hannibal Lecter, lover of fava beans, Chianti and human flesh while messing with the mind of Foster’s Clarissa Starling, FBI agent. Rated R.


Inexpensive fall home maintenance projects to do this weekend

It has been said that the easiest way to eat an elephant is by taking one bite at a time. The same holds true for home maintenance tasks. Broken down into smaller bites, the jobs don’t seem so overwhelming.

We like to categorize them by seasons. Heading into fall, and the wild weather to come in winter, there are several preparatory home maintenance tasks that you can and should get underway right now.

“A home operates with the seasons, coming to life in the spring and hunkering down for the winter,” said Ronda Kaysen, New York Times columnist and author of “Right at Home.”

The good news is that some of these chores can be tackled in one weekend.

How’s the caulking holding up?

If it’s been awhile since you checked the caulking in the home, take some time this weekend to check it out. Even if you just check the caulking around the doors and windows, you’ll be one step ahead in preparing your home for the colder weather to come.

An easy way to check for air leaks from windows is with a lit candle. Hold the candle “… close to the window seams on a breezy day,” instructs the experts at diynetwork.com.

“If the flame bends, it signals air movement pushing through the window from outdoors.”

Go outside and check the caulking on the frame. If you notice gaps or cracks it, you’ll need to replace the caulking.

Other areas of the home to check include around doors and anywhere that pipes and vents protrude to the outside wall.

You’ll find tips on caulking windows at bobvilla.com.

Inspect the roof

Real estate agents learn early in their careers to look at the ceilings when touring a home with their clients. Often, water stains on the ceiling are the first indication to homeowners that the roof is leaking, although they may also signify leaky plumbing or fixtures.

Next, go outside and take a look at the roof, checking for missing and broken shingles.

Finally, check trees that are close to the roof for overgrowth and trim it back so that it’s not in contact with the roof.

If you suspect roof damage, call a roofing contractor for a more thorough inspection.

Get rid of gutter gunk

While you’re checking out the home’s roof, take a look at the gutters. The main purpose of gutters is to ensure that water is directed away from the foundation. If they’re full of leaves and other debris, they’ll be ineffective and may cause foundation damage.

Remove the debris and ensure that the gutters are securely attached to the home.

Ensure your refrigerator doesn’t poop out

It’s one of those home-maintenance tasks most homeowners neglect. But did you know that appliance experts recommend cleaning your refrigerator’s coils every six months?

The coils help to keep warm air from intruding to the inside of the refrigerator. They tend to collect dust, pet fur and other debris that then slows the unit’s efficiency.

What ends up happening is that the refrigerator works harder and, thus, uses more energy.

The refrigerator’s coils are located either at the bottom of the front of the unit or in the back. Use your vacuum cleaner to remove the debris and, if necessary, a coil cleaning brush. These are inexpensive and can be purchased at amazon.com, lowe’s.com and walmart.com.

Are you ready for the next hurricane?

While, thankfully, hurricane Ida is now in the rearview mirror and all is quiet on the weather front, emergency preparedness experts are warning us that we are only in the beginning of hurricane season.

Are you ready for the next one?

Hurricane readiness can save your home, your life and even thousands of dollars on homeowners insurance.

Is a Hurricane Headed Your Way?

Florida and Louisiana may be the most common victims of the Atlantic hurricane season, but as we have seen in the last few years, everyone from Texas to the Jersey shore needs to be prepared.

Anyone who has been through a hurricane or has had a home damaged by one will tell you that waiting to prepare until there is a hurricane on the radar isn’t wise.

Get supplies now. Make plans for what you’ll do when the next one hits.

Evacuate or Hunker Down?

If an evacuation order is mandated, then you should absolutely pack up and go. In fact, even if there is a chance a hurricane will hit your area, you ought to get out of town early if you can.

Otherwise, you face becoming trapped and vulnerable in the ensuing traffic jams. Plus, as we have seen during the worst hurricanes of the last decade, it isn’t always the wind and rain that is the worst threat to your safety – often it is the mayhem that follows.

Whether you are staying or going, you need to have your emergency kit ready and be well-stocked on essentials.
Evacuating? Before heading out, do the following:

  • Fill up the gas tank in your vehicle.
  • Turn off pilot lights and shut off your gas line
  • Turn off the water supply and master electrical breaker
  • Secure anything moveable, such as patio furniture and garden equipment, that is outdoors.
  • Board up windows or close hurricane shutters.
  • Ensure you have cash on hand.

If you plan on staying put, ensure you do the following:

  • Buy plywood, aluminum or steel panels to cover doors and windows.
  • Purchase garage door storm braces. Garage doors are the most vulnerable point in the typical home, according to the experts at the National Weather Service. Watch the how-to install video at youtube.com.
  • Cut back large trees that may topple onto the home.
  • Secure outdoor furniture and other items that may get tossed during the storm.

What you’ll need if you decide to hunker down:

  • Food for three to seven days (don’t forget pet, baby food and infant formula)
  • Plenty of water (at least 1 gallon of water per person, per day)
  • Manual can opener
  • First aid kit
  • Medications
  • Flashlights
  • Radio
  • Batteries
  • Cash
  • Copies of important documents including IDs for all adults and your homeowner insurance policy
  • Either a blanket or sleeping bag for each family member

Get approaching hurricane alerts and forecasts by visiting the National Weather Service’s National Hurricane Center online at nhc.noaa.gov.

Fall: Time to plant those mums!

Fall mums, also known as garden mums, used to be commonly known as chrysanthemums. They are available in many colors and sizes, are easy to grow in the garden bed as well as containers and they’re sure to add a jolt of color when everything else is dying back.

The best time to plant the fall mum is in late August to mid-September.

The fall mum is planted either in late August or early September. But you can still plant until “… six weeks before the first killing frost,” according to Leanne Potts at hgtv.com.

What you’ll need

  • Shovel
  • Compost
  • Gardening fork
  • 5-10-5 fertilizer
  • Pruning shears
  • Mulch

Prepare the planting bed

The ideal place to plant your fall mum is one that gets a full day of sunshine. The plant will produce more and better blooms the more sun it gets.

The fall mum has a very shallow root system so you won’t need to dig up the soil too much when preparing the bed. Dig down to a depth of 4 inches, turning the soil and crushing any large clods of dirt.

Remove any rocks or old roots or other debris that you find. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost over the planting bed and, with the gardening fork, mix it in well with the existing soil, and then level the bed so that there aren’t any depressions.

Plant the mums

The distance you place between plants is going to depend a lot upon the size of the mums you are planting. Generally, you will want to space them 18 inches apart.

Remove the plant from its current pot by tipping the pot over and gently coaxing it out. Squeezing the sides of plastic planting pots helps disengage roots that are stuck to the sides.

Once it’s out of the nursery pot, loosen the mum’s outer roots with your fingers.

Dig a hole twice the width and the same depth as the pot in which the mum was growing. Place the roots of the plant into the hole and backfill, patting the soil around the roots as you go. Firm the soil around the plant and then water deeply.

Care of the newly-planted mum

Regular, deep watering is vital for the success of your fall mum garden. Give them a good soak twice a week.

They won’t require any fertilizer their first season in the garden. Next season, plan on feeding monthly with a 5-10-5 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb. per 100 square feet of garden space.

When your mum plants have reached 6-inches in height, cut an inch of new growth from every shoot. These cut shoots will produce more branches and, when those have grown 3 inches, cut them as well. Keep doing this until July. This will encourage the mum plant to be bushier and it will provide you with more flowers.

As winter approaches, keep the plants moist. There’s no need to cut them back, as you will do this in the spring. When the soil freezes, add a 4-inch layer of mulch around them.

In the spring, rake back the mulch and cut the mum plants back to the soil. As you did last season, start trimming the new growth when the plant is 6 inches tall.

Happy Fall!

Tips to close your pool

Summer 2020 and 2021 saw the sale of pools, and homes with pools, skyrocket. In July of this year, “… a basic vinyl in-ground pool — without the bells and whistles of heating, decking or any further customization — costs $85,000 on average, up from the $60,000 to $65,000 in 2019,” said Zachary Kussin at nypost.com.

As a result, a huge swath of the American public has been subjected to crash courses in subjects such as balancing the chlorine and pH levels in their pools, checking alkalinity and calcium hardness levels, keeping the pool chlorinated and more.

With winter just few months away, their next question will be “What do I do to get this thing ready for winter?”

If you’re among the curious, read on.

Open your pool early and close your pool late

It’s tempting to want to get a head start on closing your pool as summer winds down and kids head back to school. Tempting, but not wise.

“If you close your pool while the weather is still warm, the winter protection chemicals you’ve added will often not last until spring,” according to Lana Seidman with HIC of Staten Island, Inc., a non-profit trade association

She goes on to explain that “… pool chemicals are consumed much faster in hotter temperatures versus cooler temperatures.”

How hot is hot? Sixty degrees Fahrenheit appears to be the magic number. This is the temperature at which algae goes dormant, according to Seidman. Wait until the water temperature remains consistently lower than 60 degrees before closing your pool.

Give the pool a good scrub

The experts at Thatcher Pools recommend that you “… grab the pool brush and your telescoping pole and start scrubbing. Scrub everything from the walls to the floor, and get to the nooks and crannies if you can.”

Not only does this process loosen debris but also algae spores that may have settled into those nooks and crannies.

Finally, vacuum up all the loosened debris.

Get those chemicals balanced

Here’s what to aim for, according to those pros at Thatcher Pools:

  • pH: 7.2 to 7.8
  • Alkalinity: 100 to 150 parts per million (ppm)
  • Chlorine: Less than 5 parts per million.

Add an algaecide (never add this when the chloring level is high) and pool enzymes next. Consider using a Winter Pill that will work all winter long.

You’ll also want to shock the pool, regardless of how clear the water is. Find a shock product designed to be used when closing a pool that contains “… at least 65 per cent hypochlorite.”

No, the work isn’t over yet, but this gives you a good head start. You’ll find pool closing walk-through tutorials and videos online.

Pets have accidents: Here’s how to clean them from carpet

Statistics; you gotta love them.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, 38.4% of American households are home to a dog, while 25.4% have cats.

That’s a grand total of more than 48 million dogs and nearly 32 million cats.

Imagine the amount bodily fluids that ends up on carpets nationwide. It’s inescapable, really. Even the most well-trained pet can have an accident indoors.

Let’s take a look at some of the more common messes our pets leave behind and how to clean them from carpet.

Pet vomit

Cats vomit more often than dogs. It’s true. Some cats vomit more often than other cats. If you live with a serial vomiter, don’t despair. Whether it’s a cat or a dog who leaves behind vomit, we have a tip to remove it, and the stain, from the carpet.

  • Lay a paper towel over the mess and gently blot the liquid from it. Don’t press to hard while blotting to avoid pushing the vomit further into the carpet.
  • Use another paper towel to gently lift the vomit pile from the carpet.
  • Clean the resulting stain a.s.a.p. with a paste composed of two parts of baking soda in one part hydrogen peroxide. Stir well and use the spoon to spread the paste over the spot until it’s covered entirely. Avoid pressing the mixture into the carpet.
  • Allow the paste to remain on the stained area of the carpet until it is dry. This may take anywhere from a few hours to overnight.
  • Use the vacuum to suck up the dried paste.

You may need to reapply a fresh layer of the paste for stubborn stains. Repeat the procedure, allowing the paste to dry completely, before using the vacuum to suck it up.

Pet urine

Owners of geriatric dogs, more than other pet owners, deal with a lot of pet accidents. As our pets age, especially dogs, they often lose bladder function and become incontinent.

Many owners deal with this by diapering their dogs or crating them at night when they can’t help the dog outside to relieve itself.

Accidents still happen, though, and although urine is a tough substance to remove from carpet, it is possible.

A new urine stains is far easier to deal with than one that is set-in. In fact, when we discover pee long after the fact, we hire a specialist to help. After all, it probably soaked into the pad beneath the carpet as well.

Here’s what you’ll need to clean a new urine stain:

  • Rags or paper towels
  • ½ cup water
  • ½ cup distilled white vinegar
  • ¼ cup baking soda
  • ¼ cup 3% hydrogen peroxide
  • Spray bottle
  • Scrub brush

After mixing the solution, check to ensure it is safe for your type of carpet. Try it on a small section of the carpet that is seldom seen. For instance, under the sofa or behind the drapes.

Use the rags or paper towels to blot out as much of the liquid as possible. When you think you’ve gotten all of it, put a clean rag over the spot and stand on it for a few seconds. You’d be surprised how much urine is left in the carpet.

Combine the water, vinegar, baking soda and peroxide in the spray bottle. Spritz the urine-stained area until it is wet.

Use the brush to lightly work the solution into the stained area, then allow the solution to sit for about 5 to 10 minutes.

Work the solution into the carpet with a brush or by rubbing it in with your fingers while wearing a rubber glove. Allow the solution to remain on the area for about 10 minutes.

Use a clean rag or bunch of paper towels to blot up the solution.

Sprinkle a bit of baking soda (enough to cover the area with urine), allow it to dry completely and then vacuum up the residue.

Now is the ideal time to aerate your lawn

Just when you thought time spent working on your landscape was coming to an end as we approach the cooler season, along come the experts.

The period from late summer and early fall, they claim, is the best time of year to do one last lawn-care maintenance task: aeration.

Now, there are caveats, of course, and not all lawn-care specialists agree on when to aerate a lawn.

If your lawn is composed of cool-season grass, now is the ideal time to aerate. If, on the other hand, you grow warm-season grass, they claim, is best aerated in late spring.

What is aeration?

Many homeowners don’t understand that there is a difference between dethatching a lawn and aerating it.

While both are critical to the health of the turf, they are two different processes, requiring different tools.

“… aeration results in the breakdown of compacted soil whereas dethatching removes layers of thatch, or dead grass and other debris, from the top of the soil,” according to the pros at sodsolutions.com.

In a nutshell, aeration involves punching holes in the turf to allow air, nutrients and water to penetrate the soil.

What happens if you don’t aerate your lawn?

Think back to any spring and summer rains you experienced. Was the lawn covered in puddles of rainwater?

That’s because the soil under the grass is compacted and the water has nowhere to go.

Sure, you can leave the standing water; it will drain eventually, right?

In the meantime, however, it may provide a breeding spot for mosquitos. Standing water also prevents grass from growing “… properly, … leaving the area vulnerable to moss growth,” according to landscaping expert David Beaulieu, at thespruce.com.

“Excess water can even lead to problems with your home’s foundation,” he concludes.

The benefits of lawn aeration

We lightly touched on a few of the benefits of lawn aeration, but here’s the “official” list from the experts at trugreen.com:

  • Aeration lets the soil “breathe.”
  • Aeration encourages “… thatch-decomposing microorganisms …” to move from the soil to the top layer.
  • The process allows more air, nutrients and moisture into the soil, providing the lawn with greater access to these important elements.
  • Aeration helps develop new, healthy roots after a tough, hot summer, making it “…ready for a green spring.”

How to Aerate Your Lawn

While many homeowners hire a landscaping company to aerate the lawn, it is an easy DIY project.

You’ll need a aerator, of course, and they’re available to rent at big home improvement stores such as Lowe’s and Home Depot. Ensure that you understand exactly how to use the tool and all the safety information the store can supply.

  • Check to ensure that sprinkler heads or other lines won’t be run over or otherwise damaged during the process. Mark areas of concern so that you can keep away from them while aerating.
  • Mow the lawn and apply an inch of water the day before you’ll be aerating.
  • Go over the lawn again, removing any debris, such as twigs and large leaves.
  • One pass is all you’ll need if the soil is lightly compacted. Heavily compacted soil may need an additional pass.
  • Allow the soil plugs to remain on the lawn (they’ll add nutrients to the lawn as they decompose).
  • Water the lawn again when you’ve finished aerating it and then water again every three days for two weeks.